![]() Sparkling wines labelled as ‘Brut’ will also be very dry on the palate. Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio). Bordeaux, Chianti, Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir) and white wines (e.g. “The price is very fair, and the vermouth honors traditional methods in addition to being conceived by a bartender.The very dry wine category includes many popular red wines (e.g. “Del Professore not only plays well with others but is bold and delicious enough to drink on its own, without taking over a cocktail recipe,” he says. Jamie Boudreau, owner of Canon in Seattle, has been a longtime admirer. Thanks to a wider availability, this collaboration between the Jerry Thomas Speakeasy in Rome, chef Federico Ricatto, and Carlo Quaglia (of the historic Antica Distilleria Quaglia, outside of Turin, Italy) continues to enlist new devotees with its distinctive herbal profile. It didn’t take long for this distinctly Italian vermouth-made from a blend of Italian wine aromatized with Alpine mint, cloves, wormwood and rhubarb, then aged for several months in oak barrels-to move up from “wild card” to essential status. To get a sense of how this new multiplicity is finding a place behind the bar right now, we spoke to bartenders across the country about their essential brands and bottlings, and how to use them. The biggest change to the category over the past few years? The increasing popularity of vermouth from Spain, particularly a new crop of sherry-based bottlings from both Lustau and González Byass they join smaller, idiosyncratic offerings from the likes of Fred Jerbis (from Italy), La Quintinye (France) and Channing Daughters (United States), and a general reshuffling of allegiances in the classic categories. “Every product tells its own story and lends its own unique hand to classic and esoteric cocktail building.” “It is an exciting time to preach the good word of vermouth,” says Matt Chavez, bar manager of the Italian restaurant Ci Siamo in New York, noting an influx of Italian and French products newly available in the United States alongside an array of New World producers. In fact, Swenson and bar industry veteran Chris Patino recently launched their own line of Italian vermouth with Villa Massa, called Vermouth Giardino, that was developed specifically with cocktails in mind.Īlthough the cocktail renaissance has helped vermouth take its place in the spotlight as a key component in classic drinks, it’s still in need of evangelists willing to demystify the category as it continues to expand. “There is a lot of excitement building, not only for the category of vermouth, but for fortified wines in general,” says Stacey Swenson, bar director at Mattos Hospitality, which includes Altro Paradiso, Lodi and Estela in New York. But each expression, producer and bottling has its own traditions, history and production methods for a consumer to consider before even twisting off the bottle cap. It’s bolstered with a distilled base spirit and typically sweetened with sugar. While the classic expressions-sweet, dry, blanc/bianco-remain the same, the bottles, brands and DNA of each continue to shapeshift, expanding the boundaries of what one would typically categorize as vermouth.Īt its core, vermouth is a bittersweet, low-ABV, aromatized and fortified wine, flavored with proprietary blends of herbs, spices and bitter botanicals. The French vermouth house Dolin, in Chambéry, France-the only protected appellation of origin for vermouth aside from Italy’s Vermouth di Torino-pioneered this style with its Blanc Vermouth Chambéry. Known as blanc, bianco or white, this clear, semisweet vermouth has distinctive floral and herbal notes. ![]() ![]() Vermouth de Chambéry is a lighter, more understated style developed by Dolin in the early 1800s in southern France. Marseille dry vermouth was first produced by Joseph Noilly in the early 1800s in Marseille, France, and the lightly aged blend is considered to be the first commercial dry vermouth. Cinchona lends a distinctive bitterness to Chinato, but this style, exclusively made in Italy’s Piedmont region, typically uses a premium wine as its base.Īlso called French vermouth, this style usually contains less than 50 grams of sugar per liter, with a clear to slightly golden hue, and is generally more floral and herbaceous than sweet vermouth. Subcategories include Vermouth Alla Vaniglia, a regional style prominently flavored with vanilla (Carpano Antica Formula is a notable example) and Vermouth con Bitter, also known as a vermouth amaro, which has an extra dose of bittering agents like gentian. Vermouth di Torino is an expression whose ingredients and production are protected by an appellation of origin. It has an average of 150 grams of sugar per liter and is typically rich and spicy, with lightly herbaceous notes. Also known as red, rosso, rouge or Italian, sweet vermouth ranges in color from garnet to dark caramel. ![]()
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